A pálinkakészítésnek négy jól elkülöníthető szakasza van. Az első lépést a gyümölcs kiválasztása jelenti. Csak megfelelően érett, aromagazdag gyümölcsből lehet jó pálinkát készíteni. Hogy milyen a megfelelő aromatartalom, arra a mesterek szerint rá kell érezni – és kóstolással erősíteni ezt a hitet, keresni a megfelelő aromát, amely a pálinka egyediségét és nagyszerűségét biztosítja. Ha kiválasztották a gyümölcsöt, akkor következhet annak előkészítése.
A csonthéjasokat (szilva, kajszi) kimagozzák, hogy a magban lévő ciántartalom ne kerüljön a cefrébe. Az almatermésűeket (alma, körte) ledarálják, mert bármilyen is legyen a gyümölcs, egy a lényeg: pépesíteni kell. A jó kajszibarack cefréje erjesztés előtt úgy néz ki, mint a sárgabaracklekvár. A tökéletes feltárás érdekében a gyümölcsök kocsonyásító anyagát a pektint enzimekkel bontják le. Amit a cefréhez adni lehet, az a tápsó, fajtaélesztő és sav, például citromsav, a cefre védelme érdekében.
Erjesztés
Ha eddig eljutottak, kezdődhet az erjesztés, szigorúan cukor hozzáadása nélkül. Birspálinka készítés esetén a kőkemény húst le kell darálni, ugyanis nem erjed ki magától megfelelően. Az erjesztésnél a cél ugyanis az, hogy a gyümölcs cukortartalmából minél több alkohol keletkezzen.
Minden erjesztés lelke az oxigénhiány. Rendkívül fontos, hogy a cefre levegőtől elzártan (anaerob) erjedjen. Persze az erjedés közben termelődnek széndioxid gázok, amelyeket el kell távolítani a cefréből. Ezt a feladatot a mai modern erjesztő tartályok egy kis kiegyenlítő szelep segítségével kitűnően megoldják. Fontos az erjesztési hőmérséklet is. A cefre szobahőmérséklet alatt, 16-18 fokon szeret erjedni. Magasabb hőmérséklet káros az intenzív gázképződés és az élesztők érzékenysége miatt, a nap pedig egyenesen megöli a pálinkát, akárcsak a kevergetéssel a cefrébe vitt oxigén. Ha minden körülmény megfelelő, akkor 10-15 nap alatt végbemegy az erjedés. A főerjedést, mivel közben a cefre pezseg, buborékol, felmelegszik, zajos erjesztésnek hívjuk. Ha ennek vége, akkor utóerjedéssel alakul át a maradék cukor alkohollá, s ezután főzhető is a cefre. A leendő pálinka minőségét kilencven százalékban a cefre lepárlás előtti állapota, minősége határozza meg.
Lepárlás
A lepárlásnak, desztillációnak a lényege az, hogy a gyümölcsből kinyerjék az aromákat az alkohollal együtt és mindezt betöményítsék. Ehhez a főzőmesterek soha nem felejtik el hozzátenni, hogy a rossz gyümölcsből nem lehet jó pálinkát készíteni, ám megfelelő minőségű gyümölcsből is csak nagy odafigyeléssel lehet jó pálinkát varázsolni.
A lepárlás bonyolult elválasztási és töményítési folyamat, amelynek során az elegyet, cefrét desztillálják, miközben az alkohol-víz elegy és az aromák átpárlódnak és töményednek. Az üstöt, miután beletöltötték a cefrét, melegítik, a hevítés során érdemes keverni a cefrét, nehogy leégjen. Ha elérik azt a hőmérsékletet, amelyen a cefre már forr (ez az alkohol 78 fokos és a víz 100 fokos forrpontja között van), akkor a gőzök eljutnak a hűtőbe, ahol újra folyadékként jelenik meg a párlat. Az elsőként távozó párlat alkoholtartalma magas, akár 90 V/V %-os is lehet. Ahogy melegszik a cefre, egyre magasabb víz- és egyre alacsonyabb alkoholtartalmú elegy keletkezik. Régen addig főzték a pálinkát, amíg a kapott párlat el nem érte az 50 alkoholfokot. Ez viszont azt jelentette, hogy e végtermékbe belefőzték az úgynevezett savanyúvizet is.
Ma ezt már nem párolják le, mert rontja a pálinka minőségét. Mivel az aromák nagy része már a lepárlási folyamat elején kinyerhető, a főzőmesterek magas alkoholtartalom mellett állítják le a főzést, a középpárlat 70-86 alkohol fokos, majd desztillált vízzel állítják be a pálinka fogyasztási alkoholtartalmát. Ezért lehet némelykor a pálinkásüvegek címkéin olvasni, hogy a pálinka mellett desztillált (lágy) vizet is tartalmaz.
Kisüsti lepárlás, vagy tornyos?
Avagy a hagyományos technológia a modern ellen?
Alapvetően két féle lepárlási mód van. A hagyományos a kisüsti, kétszeri szakaszos technológia. Ez nem csak attól kisüsti, hogy megszabott – jelenleg 1000 literben meghatározott – a lepárlóüst térfogata, hanem abban van a lényege, hogy a cefrét kétszer párolják le. Az első főzetet alszesznek, bizonyos helyeken vodkának hívják. Amíg az első körben a cél az összes illóanyag és alkoholtartalom kinyerése a cefréből, addig a második körben az ízek, aromák és az alkohol töményítése, megfelelő elválasztása a cél. A második lepárlást finomításnak nevezzük.
A finomítás során meg kell különböztetni elő-, közép- és utópárlatot. Hogy ezek határa hol van, azt mindig a főzőmester határozza meg az alapanyag minősége és fajtája alapján. A tiszta pálinkát a középpárlat adja, de az előpárlatban is vannak aromák, ezért nehéz eldönteni, hol kezdődik a középpárlat. Különösen azért, mert ha túl sok előpárlat kerül a pálinkába, akkor szúrós szagú lesz. A túl sok utópárlat pedig rothadó gyümölcs szagát keveri a pálinkába. A legnagyobb gondot és egyben szakértelmet az elő- és középpárlat meghatározása, szétválasztása jelenti. Úgy kell dönteni, hogy a pálinkába elegendő íz és aroma kerüljön, de ne legyen kellemetlen illata.
A másik lepárlási mód a „tornyos”, erősítő-feltétes lepárlás. Itt csak egyszer párolják le a cefrét, az alszesz finomítását pedig egy részében,a toronyban lévő tányérok segítségével végzik, amelyek általában három tányért tartalmaznak. ( kép az Agárdi Pálinkafőzde lepárlóberendezését mutatja.)
Akármelyik módszert is választják, a lényeg a középpárlaton van, amelynek be kell állítani az alkoholtartalmát, amihez ízmentes, általában ioncserélt vizet használnak. Lényeges, hogy a víz semmilyen más ízt ne vigyen bele a pálinkába.
Nemesítés – A pálinka egyedisége
Az alkoholtartalom arányát nem kötelező a lepárlás után beállítani. Azt később, a nemesítés (tárolás, érlelés) során is meg lehet tenni. Előfordul, hogy magas alkoholtartalommal tesznek el – főként fahordóba – érlelni pálinkát, mert az egészen más anyagokat old ki a fából, mint a víz. A nemesítés során szokták a pálinkát gyümölcságyra önteni, így készül az ágyas pálinka – ekkor a gyümölccsel azonos pálinkát kell használni. Fontos, hogy a hozzáadott gyümölcsből plusz ízeket és cukrot old ki a pálinka, ami már nem erjed ki, csak édesebbé, teltebbé teszi az italt. A fahordós érlelés során a fa is ad plusz ízeket, színt a pálinkának, amely a fa szerkezetének köszönhetően lélegzik is az érlelés alatt. Ez a szellőzés „puhítja”, símábbá, jobban ihatóvá teszi a pálinkát.
A pálinka különlegességét és egyediségét mutatja az is, hogy – szemben a whiskyvel és a konyakkal – nem áll jól minden pálinkának a fahordós érlelés, mert a fa kiolthatja a gyümölcs jellegét. Fémedényben viszont jobban összeérik a pálinka, amit az érlelés során érdemes kevergetni, hogy még harmonikusabbá váljon. Ha mindezzel végeztek, jöhet a palackozás.
Kapcsolódó cikkek:
Ez némileg változó, de 2004-től a főzdéknek van egy szabály: 100kg gyümlcsből mennyi pálinka adható ki (max.), amennyiben pálinkának nevezendő. Ez egyébként fent van a neten, ha sikerül bemásolom ide.
2004.májustól kiadható pálinka mennyisége: pálinka liter/100kg alma 10, meggy 10, birs9, őszibarack 8, bodza6, sárgabarack 12, bor 18, seprő 16, cseresznye 8 szilva 14, erdei gyümölcs 6, szőllő16, gabona 60 törköly 12, körte9, vegyes 12
Nagyon érdekes cikk, köszönjük! Érdekelne, hogy mi okozza egyes pálinkák esetén az acetonos illatot, illetve képződik-e metilalkohol is az erjedés során? Ha igen, mitől, és hogyan választják ezt el a lepárlás során?
Érdekes, hogy szakmai kérdésekre sem jön válasz a "szakmától" egy ilyen illusztris lapon (sem). A pálinkavilág nem túl aktív... vajon mi lehet az oka? Erre a kérdésre is pálinkafőző, -kereskedő szakemberek tudnának igazi váalszt adni (és persze még sok egyébre is). Szerintem az acetonos íz a tökéletlen lepárlás okozza. Minden alkohollal kapcsolatos izhiba innen származik, az ízhibák másik része pedig a gyümölcstől, tárolás-cefrézéstől. Úgy tudom metil-alkohol képződik a lepárláskor, sőt valamennyi (nagyon csekály) a pálinkában is marad, a többi már (bio)kémia.
feketeribizli cefre kezelésével kapcsolatos tanacsra lenne szuksegem. Miben kulonbozik a tobbitol?
FS
2004.májustól kiadható pálinka mennyisége: pálinka liter/100kg alma 10, meggy 10, birs9, őszibarack 8, bodza6, sárgabarack 12, bor 18, seprő 16, cseresznye 8 szilva 14, erdei gyümölcs 6, szőllő16, gabona 60 törköly 12, körte9, vegyes 12
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A kérdésem az hogy be lehet e állítani egy pálinka methanol tartalmát egy meghatározott határérték alá, ha igen akkor hogyan, milyen eljárással lehet ezt megtenni? Valamint függ e a methanol tartalom a gyümölcs fajtájától a párlatok esetében?
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#1 | 2010. május 18. 22:01 | Válasz erre az üzenetre »
Érdekelne mennyi gyümölcsből (Kg) mennyi cefre (L) lesz.
Éspedig a következő gyümölcsöknél: alma, szilva, körte, birs és barack
Előre is köszönöm